Bugs
Just finished reading Bustin' Down The Door by Rabbit. Well worth a read for any surfer. I loved all the surfing history of the Gold Coast, and it really made me want to go to Hawaii to watch a North Shore season. Emphasis on watch!! He's a hell of a character and lots of it made me laugh. I think he sailed pretty close to the wind on some of it, and glossed over some of the antics in other parts. The accounts of the heroin epidemic in Cooly were heartbreaking, just as in MP (the Michael Petersen book, heavily recommended). God he's done a lot for the sport as well. And there are so many other characters who have just faded out of the public eye who should be just as recognised.
It's Pob's copy, and a ton of pages have fallen out since I took it to Portugal and all. Hope he doesn't mind - but then, a ton of stuff I've lent him before has never found its way back at all, so all's fair!
Lord but I want to surf. Swam a mile in 35 mins this morning, going the last ten like a maniac. It's water, but not the water I want. First sign of a swell and I'm bloody well out of here, back home to Wales. The charts show activity, but I'm not sure it's the right kind. Time will tell.
Next book: Soul Surfer by Bethany Hamilton, the Hawaiian girl who had her arm taken off by a shark and has returned to competitive surfing.
Even did a bit of writing today so popeth yn iawn - all's well.
It's Pob's copy, and a ton of pages have fallen out since I took it to Portugal and all. Hope he doesn't mind - but then, a ton of stuff I've lent him before has never found its way back at all, so all's fair!
Lord but I want to surf. Swam a mile in 35 mins this morning, going the last ten like a maniac. It's water, but not the water I want. First sign of a swell and I'm bloody well out of here, back home to Wales. The charts show activity, but I'm not sure it's the right kind. Time will tell.
Next book: Soul Surfer by Bethany Hamilton, the Hawaiian girl who had her arm taken off by a shark and has returned to competitive surfing.
Even did a bit of writing today so popeth yn iawn - all's well.
posted by surfergrl at 8:32 PM
4 Comments:
Wheredyasurf? Been away from the Welsh coastline for almost four months and I really miss it. Trying to get a job but really just want to surf Llangennith - heard Morocco is good?
Wheredyasurf? Been away from the Welsh coastline for almost four months and I really miss it. Trying to get a job but really just want to surf Llangennith - heard Morocco is good?
Wheredyasurf? Been away from the Welsh coastline for almost four months and I really miss it. Trying to get a job but really just want to surf Llangennith - heard Morocco is good? And the v-dub wins hands down - Old split-screen model, black et white checks, blacked out windows with a couple of boards on the top! ha ha.
Ah, but I had an old one - a 73 bay window. Sucked petrol and money. One day, when I am rich, I will have another one. Surf Ceredigion mostly. Would love to try Morocco!
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