beautiful

Had another little surf at lunchtime, wish I'd got my ass up early as it has picked up loads today. Took a two hour lunch break, oops! Too nice to get out, not like I've got tons to do anyway...

Had loads of waves although it was pretty crumbly. Quite a few straighthanders. I think I'm not getting onto a lot of them early enough, got to paddle harder, although I am paddling as hard as I can in the first place!! It does help going for them earlier. Johnny said it was well sucky and quite big at Watergate, he got held down a lot, so it's not just me has had a kicking off this swell!

Had one nice left, one elevator drop which I made then it damn well sectioned in front of me, one nice long right and a few which just closed out. Lots for the hour I was in though, and the water's almost warm enough for shorts, (def wish I had the shortie) and twas sunny. Meeting Lou, Ben and co. at Penhale later for a pre-gig (The Beautiful Girls) surf, lush!