pummelled!

Christ, the surf was fucking amazing on Saturday. The boys legged it down the beach, so excited like little kids, north Watergate was 4ft or so of perfect barrels, some closing out but mostly just wow, don't think I've ever seen waves like that in the UK except a couple of times at home, but Watergate breaks differently... I paddled out fine, took a look at a few but didn't catch one. It was beautiful out there, perfect. Then I was paddling over to get onto the north side of this big sandbank to try and get into some rights and this big set appeared... I was fucked from the first wave, had no chance! Took about four on the head, duckdived the first three but it didn't do me any good! Quite breathless then, next one I didn't dive properly and came off the board, then another three or four just washed me in and I was getting a bit, like, when will this end?! But I held on to my board, tried to duck as hard as (have the bruises to prove it!) and didn't panic and thrash about so...
Took a little time to get my breath back then paddled back out. Was ok for a bit, went further south, but then another set drilled me, not as big at all but I was pretty tired. So I got out and rested for a bit, gave myself a talking to! and paddled back out again... this time it was fine and I even caught a couple! but fell off them straight away... Shocker session really but taught me a lot I suppose. Can laugh about it now. Would have been nice if the boys had actually seen me on a fucking wave, I mean I CAN surf, honest!! but recently... ysbwriel.
Smaller sessions in Fistral later on that day, then another little surf yesterday, both with Ems who was really enjoying the surf too. Wish I'd got photos of Watergate on Sat. Perfaith!