quickie

Quick after-work surf at South Fistral (might as well camp permanently at that place), 2ft and quite fat, still nice and sunny and not too crowded. Rob was out there too. Kept thinking about what Llew said and paddled for everything as soon as I saw it was a possibility. Talking to the waves, 'Hwn sy biau fi, dere 'ma, piga fi lan,' think most thought me crazy...who cares cos I caught TONS of waves, had a really nice left, bottom turn but then lost a lot of speed, need to work on that. One right where I had to cutback hard straight away cos it was so fat, and it worked, felt good. Couple of shorter rides and one really long right, smiling all evening off that one wave! Stoked.