Thursday, August 25, 2005

surf, what else?

Nearly paddled out at biggish South Fistral, so nearly, but didn't feel like taking the poundings. Great Western was less windy, cleaner, about 3ft. I only took the waves marked S for Suicide! and had a ball. Made some steep drops, took a lot of straighthanders, got thrown about a bit, got some amazing speed but it was almost outrunning the pink board really. Still it was wicked and I love being one of the better surfers out there! (Town always full of kooks.) It wasn't the challenge Fistral would have been, but I got some good waves and feel like I'm really solid on that new level of mine. Hooray!

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