2ft choppy

Haven't stopped to catch breath. Surfed Droskyn last night after a mission of a search - should have stayed at Fistral, was clean but am sick of the crowds and longboard wave hogs. Had a good little session anyway, nothing amazing. Early at South this morning, quite a few in, David too. Had so many waves can't count, nothing that long but was really fun. Smacked the lip pretty hard on one, still haven't stuck one yet though. Next time. So tired!