Friday, September 23, 2005

Best Surf Yet

Okay, so every surf is the most fun I've ever had in my life, but last night was THE MOST. Droskyn on the push, not too many people, three foot plus wedgy peaks. After piking on a few I lucked into a good long one and the speed was great, biggest wave I've surfed since moving down here. All those little summer sessions have definitely improved me, caught another three good ones. Fell off one right in front of Sam Lamiroy, 'you should have gone right' he says, yeah, I should have got up properly first. The speed on the last couple I had was awesome, bring on the bigger waves!! I was totally flying, it's so much easier when you don't have to fight to stay on a wave. Super happy, mojo returned.

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