great western

Went out last night and got a set on the head thought I was going to die! No sleep and little food meant I had no energy to struggle. But then caught about 10 waves in an hour and was better than a lot of the guys out there which is always nice

Looked around and thought, you're all bastards so I'm going to take all your waves! haha.

Some arsehole dropped in on me at one point and there were, as ever, too many out there, but it was still good fun, got loads of lefts, made lots of drops out of the lip and had a couple of longer rights but it's mostly straighthanders out there esp when its 2ft+. Some sneakers came in at a good 3ft so Fistral would have been too much for me but I'll take a look today as I'm feeling better. Can't waste a swell like this for anything.