perranporth

Had the best little surf last night at Perranporth. Was going in Penhale, but it didn't look quite as clean as the crowded Fistral, so went south, saw Jens as was leaving. Perran still had a few too many as it was only a couple of feet, some good surfers out. Got dropped in on on first wave, uhoh, but after that found a little space. Got some good waves but nothing that really flowed, one nearly did but jeez it got all lumpy, I was laughing at it like, come on, give me a chance here! stuck on it til the bitter end anyway. One drop from top to bottom four feet, (not wave sizes but actual four feet straight down) can do it easy, it's attitude, it's I WILL make this, cos otherwise it'll be a good sound thrashing (not so bad on two foot waves but still would have been urgh) so I made it and almost round the section, but there wasn't much more to the wave anyway. Lots of peaks but not many peeling for far as it was getting high tide and fatter. Fun though.

Only one other girl out, chick on blue longboard quite good lots of waves but couldn't walk the board at all, born shortboard surfer. Ah well. I think SurfGirl should be doing a lot more longboard, retro and minimal focus cos that's what about 70% of chicks are riding. And half of those on shortboards can't surf them at all. Not that I'm so shit hot mind. Got lots of waves, lots weren't very long though. Only fucked up stupidly on a couple though.

First righthander was supreme, fast perfect takeoff and bottom turn but it had sectioned in front so just somehow did the thing the good surfers do, chasing it trying to get round, didn't lose any speed was wicked, did well with that, but no face left closeout. Another where I took off, went left, was dropped in on (oh it's a girl she's not going to catch that let alone actually make it) and so faded right instead only to find a longboarder old guy coming left as well, no room in the water any more! Sometimes really miss Wales! Just me out then Pob comes running in, how is it sufer girl, trading waves no-one else out. Doesn't happen here.

Maybe should have turned around again and surfed Penhale with Jens, but the £1.50 really grates!! And it wasn't so clean. Looked a little bigger though, and only like 3 people out. Next time, I have Perranporth wired now (!) time to move on a little. Lots of waves just too fat, take off and halfway throught he turn realise it's not happening, try to cut back but not enough speed, don't really know how to deal with those the best. Really gotta take off in the pocket I suppose.

Looking forward to the waves next week, pray the storm doesn't track over us. Shame nothing to do this weekend though, typical.