classic

Watched Porthtowan on Saturday, huge and barrelling, the boogers were having the time of their lives, pitted so deep though they didn't come out of many of them. We watched for hours. I couldn't have surfed it had I been fit and well. Sunday I couldn't stand it, 3ft and clean at Fistral had to be done. Was nearly sick due to the vodka and neck pretty stiff but caught a couple of beaut lefts and Em had a great session too. Worth getting stiffer for.