Monday, October 10, 2005

drink

Stupidly too hungover on Saturday to paddle out, but Sunday was great. Searched and found eventually, three feet, some bigger, quite hollow. Had one 'flying' left and a right which I loved, walled up and let me do loads on it, felt like I was surfing well. Quite a few big-drop closeouts too. Water definitely cooling down but managed two hours. Swell sticking around as well, stoked. Hungover again but I'll be fine by 5.30!

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