drink
Stupidly too hungover on Saturday to paddle out, but Sunday was great. Searched and found eventually, three feet, some bigger, quite hollow. Had one 'flying' left and a right which I loved, walled up and let me do loads on it, felt like I was surfing well. Quite a few big-drop closeouts too. Water definitely cooling down but managed two hours. Swell sticking around as well, stoked. Hungover again but I'll be fine by 5.30!


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