lefts

Caught the BEST left of my life, no questions. I couldn't believe the way it set up and peeled, just reeling down the line, no sections, no steps, just happily following the sandbank. I didn't need to do much to stay with it, but the gently up and down rail to rail flowed perfectly, as easy as if I was on my forehand. There's something feels more graceful to me about the backhand anyway. The best. I opened my arms and shoulders to follow the wave and turn as you're supposed to do, textbook positioning (probabaly looked like a total kook but it felt exactly right) and it was then I felt like I was flying, the board in the right position and like it almost wasn't there at all, or like it was part of me, knew where to go with just the lightest touch, the smallest move.
Caught some bomby ones too, made the drop then got the closeout, but it's great to paddle into a fast one, realise you're cuaght, take the drop, really steep, on the back foot arms out like a gull, can't believe my balance, looking for which way to turn but both ways are boooompa! whitewater, so just carve round and leap off over the back, or just punt the board forward and drop off into the melee, let myself get souped about a bit. After that 6ft set on my head that doesn't worry me so much any more.
Got one great right, another one which flowed. There are more of them each session, generally, as long as I have space to get some waves at all, and this was good. I only got out because Penhale is so deserted that to be the only person in the water when it's dark and having to walk those dunes - well.
The colours in the water, the colour of cold. And I opened my eyes for the first time underwater. It was the green of shipwrecks and depth, and everything was blurred like I was half-blind again. The kernow water may not be as clean as cymru, but it's clear and crystal, warmer, and if it sends me one wave like my left every session I'll be a very lucky surfer.