perfaith

Smaller sesh at Tolcarne last night, mostly closeouts, but one nice left drop which Rob said looked good.

Today I have the biggest headache, got whacked so hard by the board this morning I though my teeth were going to fall out. Got one peach though, and a cute local was paddling over the sholder watching with his gob open. Ha! Perfect for me, 3ft I'd say with the odd 'oh no, not another kicking' set. Awesome. Bit windy tho. Was a little scaredy-Kat until I forced myself to take off on 2 closeouts in a row to prove it wouldn't hurt. It doesn't - getting caught inside by closeout macca sets it way worse. I made one of them anyway. David was there too, saw him get a couple of lovely ones, if could surf like that would be happy.