warning, more surf talk…

It was so beautiful in the water last night, silky though a little cold…golden sunset, few in, what i call welsh waves. Biggish and clean worries me more than biggish but sectioning and feathering all over the line of the lip. I'm used to messy, stormy, come-and-try-me dancing waves…Ah, the Bica, I miss it.
I'm not into doing any work today!
Nearly caught the best left, yelling 'come on' at it! Bolycs! And to stop a guy dropping in (but he was nice, friendly, and didn't - for a change, just hooted me). Would have been so good but I wasn't quite in the right spot…Pulled off a nice right, pissed off with self, why i do dat??? I love a big heart-squeezing drop more than anything. Slightly out of it as haven't really surfed since Portugal.
Lunchtime, surf was as good as last night, but the same kind of shifty thing, and lots of closeouts. It was 4ft? i'm so rubbish at telling how big it is, all I know is it was part scary and part exhilarating…but I didn't get hurt or panicky, so I know I can do it. Caught a nice left - a good backhand wave again!! But that was about it…just a short lunchtime one as I've more SurfGirl work that I know what to do with. Sunny, though, and only a few on the peak with me, water lovely - could have stayed longer. My shoulders are aching now though! Need that yoga tonight, stretch me out back to rubber band status.
It'll probably drop off by tomorrow, though I will try for a dawnie, as it's going to be flat all weekend, but prob okay for a little Swelly sesh up at Croyde with the girls.
Yeah, I love that one!