day 2
How many consecutive days of swell will there be? Looking good so far!
Surf was pants last night, closing out 2-3ft Towan with the rest of the WHOLE WORLD in there. That RIchie saffa, he rips, best surfer in there by miles. Also loves to take every set wave…So so fast and precise. He never says hi but then neither do I I suppose.
There were a couple of girls in there who were good, one must be local as she knew everyone, but she wasn't very friendly… Laura dropped in on her by mistake, it was a crap wave anyway and she said sorry, girl just raised her eyebrows and paddled off…I love to see girls surfing good, but drop the attitude! Talking shit with her mates. Oh and try surfing your backhand instead of wasting perfectly good lefts……grrr.
So anyway me and Laura did get 4-5 decent ish waves each, but then it got to be a zoo, you had to drop in to get a wave and I won't do that. Ah well it was good exercise…really looks rubbish today and not that big at all. Boo! But there's plenty of swell on the way.
gosh i'm on a rant surf surf surf hey haha well, when there's surf I couldn't give a toss about any man, so that's a big plus.
Am jealous of my colleagues who all spent the day filming/shooting at and around Levy, ie surfing and messing about in boats. :-( I spent the day writing about not very fascinating stuff…Ah well put in the time and i'll be rewarded!! They'll send me to Hawaii to stay in jack johnson's house with kelly as my personal love slave and surf tutor. Actually make that Macca.
Also saw Joel Gray out in the surf, he liked the article. Glad as I had to hack a bit.
Didn't actually get any good waves, too many people. NOT going there tonight no way. looks shit everywhere anyhow. God, after the last surf, such a shame!!!
Nice to surf with laura as she's really there to surf. we don't chat a lot, just get on with it, and she really wants to be there and doesn't need help not that I mind helping people but I worry about them!
Got REALLY pissed off with that girl wasting lefts. It's SO frustrating. I'd say she was a better surfer than me, but with the no backhand and the attitude and the taking too many waves…bad. Girls mellow the lineup and guys (and other girls) so love to see girls surfing well, but she spoilt it.
Did 6 pullups easy this morning (is that actually good? I don't know)…but defo need more yoga. HAVE to do one session before it starts on Tues. Oh can't wait.
Surf was pants last night, closing out 2-3ft Towan with the rest of the WHOLE WORLD in there. That RIchie saffa, he rips, best surfer in there by miles. Also loves to take every set wave…So so fast and precise. He never says hi but then neither do I I suppose.
There were a couple of girls in there who were good, one must be local as she knew everyone, but she wasn't very friendly… Laura dropped in on her by mistake, it was a crap wave anyway and she said sorry, girl just raised her eyebrows and paddled off…I love to see girls surfing good, but drop the attitude! Talking shit with her mates. Oh and try surfing your backhand instead of wasting perfectly good lefts……grrr.
So anyway me and Laura did get 4-5 decent ish waves each, but then it got to be a zoo, you had to drop in to get a wave and I won't do that. Ah well it was good exercise…really looks rubbish today and not that big at all. Boo! But there's plenty of swell on the way.
gosh i'm on a rant surf surf surf hey haha well, when there's surf I couldn't give a toss about any man, so that's a big plus.
Am jealous of my colleagues who all spent the day filming/shooting at and around Levy, ie surfing and messing about in boats. :-( I spent the day writing about not very fascinating stuff…Ah well put in the time and i'll be rewarded!! They'll send me to Hawaii to stay in jack johnson's house with kelly as my personal love slave and surf tutor. Actually make that Macca.
Also saw Joel Gray out in the surf, he liked the article. Glad as I had to hack a bit.
Didn't actually get any good waves, too many people. NOT going there tonight no way. looks shit everywhere anyhow. God, after the last surf, such a shame!!!
Nice to surf with laura as she's really there to surf. we don't chat a lot, just get on with it, and she really wants to be there and doesn't need help not that I mind helping people but I worry about them!
Got REALLY pissed off with that girl wasting lefts. It's SO frustrating. I'd say she was a better surfer than me, but with the no backhand and the attitude and the taking too many waves…bad. Girls mellow the lineup and guys (and other girls) so love to see girls surfing well, but she spoilt it.
Did 6 pullups easy this morning (is that actually good? I don't know)…but defo need more yoga. HAVE to do one session before it starts on Tues. Oh can't wait.
posted by surfergrl at 10:54 AM
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