splash
Right, I've been a bit lazy but want to keep up with the old session diary, so new (big) swell, here goes.
Oh, and I'm madly missing home as I know where'll be good right now!!!!
Laura was busy finishing her work - she so should have come. I went straight to semi-secret newks spot, not interested in the Fistral shitfight. Was quite busy at x, but as usual the south peak and the middle peak were full and few on the right hand side, cos it's not quite as good, but was still gooood! Saw Si, he'd had a shocker. He always seems pissed off at the moment, I think he should give up the smoke.
It was dark clouds and rain on and off, got a little cold but not too bad yet…Straight in and got a lovely right, was just head high on me, didn't think i'd get round the first section but though it was new swell it wasn't throwing out too hard nor too steep to take off on, so it was perfect, nice. Made the first section and good top turn, ahhh finally i don't just get up there and lose speed, now the weight transition feels ace, fully flying weightless for a second, then commit and lean into the face, loooking for the next bit to smack! one more turn then this bodyboarder almost in the way, paddling like mad and looking at me with his gob open, yeah mate i've seen you and i'm 100% not going to fall off this so you just keep paddling. he got over the shoulder and the wave was fading and i was feeling naughty and wanted to do something other than turn turn, so I got to the top and whacked it, haha, well, it probably looked like a weak slide from shore, but a bit of the old spray came off it and almost hit him heehee. Made that swoosh then patter-of-rain noise and i was pretty stoked with that one…could probably have milked that wave a bit more instead, but I want to do manoeuvres not just stay on there until it dies. I feel I'm reading the waves better though.
Got a nice left then as well, a few turns, and another one which seemed to be a left but then when it sectioned i turned adn there was more wall going right, but I was just that bit late and got left behind on that, was crumbly anyway.
Had another left where my back foot was off the bloody tailpad!!! Tried moving it but didn't get it in the right place, still made three turns but felt like I was surfing through butter or something, couldn't move properly, tried to crank a bottom turn and argh, what's going on here?! Told myself off as I was surfing it.
Got another nice right as well, fast. Paddled into it perfect, there was a good surfer inside of me paddling too but he let me have it and for once i just focussed didn't bother going eeeek he's gonna drop in, as clearly he wasn't that kind of surfer, you can just tell the people who are paddling around without giving a shit for anyone else in the water. Like the longboarder who didn't even try to move oout of my way as i went for a wave, forcing me to try taking off too far away from shoulder and missing it…lazy boy. Anyway ~I went almost all the way into the beach on that one! Just pumping down the line, not as wally as the first one so harder to read and just keeping the speed up to get all the way was the main thing.
Then tide was getting too far in, nice sunset but got dark fast. High tide there, not as much swell gets in and you can't fit the people either. Also gets lumpy and backs off grrrrr. I was so amped for more waves as well! Ended up just getting one in, a crap left but a nice drop on it.
Oh, and I'm madly missing home as I know where'll be good right now!!!!
Laura was busy finishing her work - she so should have come. I went straight to semi-secret newks spot, not interested in the Fistral shitfight. Was quite busy at x, but as usual the south peak and the middle peak were full and few on the right hand side, cos it's not quite as good, but was still gooood! Saw Si, he'd had a shocker. He always seems pissed off at the moment, I think he should give up the smoke.
It was dark clouds and rain on and off, got a little cold but not too bad yet…Straight in and got a lovely right, was just head high on me, didn't think i'd get round the first section but though it was new swell it wasn't throwing out too hard nor too steep to take off on, so it was perfect, nice. Made the first section and good top turn, ahhh finally i don't just get up there and lose speed, now the weight transition feels ace, fully flying weightless for a second, then commit and lean into the face, loooking for the next bit to smack! one more turn then this bodyboarder almost in the way, paddling like mad and looking at me with his gob open, yeah mate i've seen you and i'm 100% not going to fall off this so you just keep paddling. he got over the shoulder and the wave was fading and i was feeling naughty and wanted to do something other than turn turn, so I got to the top and whacked it, haha, well, it probably looked like a weak slide from shore, but a bit of the old spray came off it and almost hit him heehee. Made that swoosh then patter-of-rain noise and i was pretty stoked with that one…could probably have milked that wave a bit more instead, but I want to do manoeuvres not just stay on there until it dies. I feel I'm reading the waves better though.
Got a nice left then as well, a few turns, and another one which seemed to be a left but then when it sectioned i turned adn there was more wall going right, but I was just that bit late and got left behind on that, was crumbly anyway.
Had another left where my back foot was off the bloody tailpad!!! Tried moving it but didn't get it in the right place, still made three turns but felt like I was surfing through butter or something, couldn't move properly, tried to crank a bottom turn and argh, what's going on here?! Told myself off as I was surfing it.
Got another nice right as well, fast. Paddled into it perfect, there was a good surfer inside of me paddling too but he let me have it and for once i just focussed didn't bother going eeeek he's gonna drop in, as clearly he wasn't that kind of surfer, you can just tell the people who are paddling around without giving a shit for anyone else in the water. Like the longboarder who didn't even try to move oout of my way as i went for a wave, forcing me to try taking off too far away from shoulder and missing it…lazy boy. Anyway ~I went almost all the way into the beach on that one! Just pumping down the line, not as wally as the first one so harder to read and just keeping the speed up to get all the way was the main thing.
Then tide was getting too far in, nice sunset but got dark fast. High tide there, not as much swell gets in and you can't fit the people either. Also gets lumpy and backs off grrrrr. I was so amped for more waves as well! Ended up just getting one in, a crap left but a nice drop on it.
posted by surfergrl at 12:29 PM
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