Thursday, September 14, 2006

where to go?

Surf is fucked. Not interested but wil go out anyway as Laura is keen and it'll get me fitter. After last night's little peaks, proper walls and smackable fun, today's blown out sectioning crumble does not inspire me. Hurray, huge swell, everyone's frothing - but you can't surf it. All right Richie Mullins, maybe big Bowgie lefts suits you, but not me…Only a few places are surfable, half the world has turned up at Levy but it's not on anyway…One choice for me and probably every other man and dog after 5pm. Really wanna go home!! If and when the next hurricaine swell appears, I'm off, and I think I'll take some unpaid as well.

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