last surf this week

Went Fistral yesterday lunchtime. Was just 2ft and pretty weak really, but whenI got in it wasn't too crowded. First few waves i was being a spacker but then caught a few decent ones, not millions but did lose count. Got a bit cold. Foot off tail pad a couple times. So am writing a piece of tape to stick on it. Wasn't really focussing properly, got to stop thinking about other stuff in the sea. I'm fine if my mind's on it!!

Last wave was the best by far. Little blondy boy saw me going and i was right on the peak too but he paddled anyway and was going to get up as well the **** but it faded on him, i'd have had to yell at him. Took off damn close to him and had the best left HA so yes don't drop in on girls. did like 4 sets of top and bottom turns and tried to smack the last bit but it was tiny by then. Surfed all the way in. Got back about 3. Mike just asked how it was…no-one cares! good.