Friday, October 13, 2006

ooooooooooooooooooooo

just had the BEST surf ;-) - paddle out, catch wave straight away, out, wave, out wave out wave for an hour and half, lovely 2ft clean not crowded coulda been bigger but like fukin summer out there, sooo nice! fistral later for sure.

oh blogger swallowed last post - good surf, loads waves, fat longboarders ;-) and last night was REALLY good as well.

Totally rediscovered stoke. Surfing more important than just about everything else…have been trying to fit it in when really I should be trying to fit everything else in!!

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