enfys
It was good and bad, ze old surf. Bay looked like it was juuuuust holding the slightly decreased swell, with some bigger peelers (well, a few) coming through, clean and quite powerful. Managed to paddle out with only 2 duckdives so that was good. Didn't get any flushes today so that was good too, maybe it's just moulding to me. Maybe weeing in it helps…Had to.
Got a couple at the start of the sesh, nothing great though. Then there were just toooo many people. Lots of waves I would have been dropping in on someone in, and a few that I could have yelled for I suppose.
Rainbows appeareed with the showers, enfys all over the skies, beautiful. There were about 4 other chicks out as well. One rated herself clearly but I didn't see her on anything great. Just too many people altogether.
About three or four big sets rolledthrough - it was about 3ft but then these sets were easy 4ft, and the bigger ones of course didn't peel anyway.
Mad guy on a fish taking off on closeouts. Decided to take me under his wing or maybe he talks to every random who gets in his way. Told me I should have called grommet-snake-boy off one wave. Suppose I should have gone for it. Pointless when I know guys will just carry on anyway so my wave will be ruined.
Then I was paddling out, big set, a right comes towards me with a longboarder poised in the lip. Okay I think, out of this poor guy's way, paddle this way. He takes off and goes left, and we got tangled up cos he wiped out sraight away. This time I don't think it was me going the wrong way. Wasn't me why he fell off in any case…ah well. Fishman said 'you okay?' I'm like yeah…jeez, just cos I'm a girl…not seen me take my floggings with the rest and pop up and not have been dragged as far back as most people? Ah well he was only trying to be nice.
So I didn't wanna get out really but at 2.45 thought I better had!! Oops deadline tomorrow…etc. So I got one last wave and actually made it a decent one, despite having to say 'fuck it' that there were about 4 people paddling out in my takeoff zone. Was only a little one but rode it all the way in.
Best thing - wasn't even a bit cold. Better thing - it's nearly the end of the day! Wish I could go for another surf but it's getting dark now.
Thank God for surf.
Got a couple at the start of the sesh, nothing great though. Then there were just toooo many people. Lots of waves I would have been dropping in on someone in, and a few that I could have yelled for I suppose.
Rainbows appeareed with the showers, enfys all over the skies, beautiful. There were about 4 other chicks out as well. One rated herself clearly but I didn't see her on anything great. Just too many people altogether.
About three or four big sets rolledthrough - it was about 3ft but then these sets were easy 4ft, and the bigger ones of course didn't peel anyway.
Mad guy on a fish taking off on closeouts. Decided to take me under his wing or maybe he talks to every random who gets in his way. Told me I should have called grommet-snake-boy off one wave. Suppose I should have gone for it. Pointless when I know guys will just carry on anyway so my wave will be ruined.
Then I was paddling out, big set, a right comes towards me with a longboarder poised in the lip. Okay I think, out of this poor guy's way, paddle this way. He takes off and goes left, and we got tangled up cos he wiped out sraight away. This time I don't think it was me going the wrong way. Wasn't me why he fell off in any case…ah well. Fishman said 'you okay?' I'm like yeah…jeez, just cos I'm a girl…not seen me take my floggings with the rest and pop up and not have been dragged as far back as most people? Ah well he was only trying to be nice.
So I didn't wanna get out really but at 2.45 thought I better had!! Oops deadline tomorrow…etc. So I got one last wave and actually made it a decent one, despite having to say 'fuck it' that there were about 4 people paddling out in my takeoff zone. Was only a little one but rode it all the way in.
Best thing - wasn't even a bit cold. Better thing - it's nearly the end of the day! Wish I could go for another surf but it's getting dark now.
Thank God for surf.
posted by surfergrl at 4:16 PM
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