patience

Er anyway where was i> Oh yes, i feel much better. Why? Cos I went surfing, silly. Tolcarne again cos it was bang on high. Nice and clean out there, 3ft some bigger sets as the tide began to turn. Not really wedging but there were some fun sections oooohhhhpppps is it jacking up to twice the size eek okay. Wanted three good waves, got three good waves (well, okay, nothing amazing). The best one I got one I had my damn foot off the tailpad again, but still managed to rip it up ;-) hehe. Second one was the best. Got one okay right and one niceish left. Second one though, woo…steeeeeep drop, nearly bottled it but no, not with Chris Thomson out there ;-) Stamped on the front foot whoosh dropped down and in, got so much speed, had taken off right at the top of the peak, wedging one. It sectioned in front of me boo, would have smacked it just for the hell of it but that was when I realised my back foot was off, so I just steered as if cutting back and it sort of reformed, was quite nice. Just nice to know I can surf. Sort of. Feel like I'm really getting to know how the bay works now, and how to get a half-decent session out of it - it's not as bad as a lot of people say. There's peelers, if you know when to be where. Patience.