rhewi

Perfect (as it gets in the Bay ie actually peeling mostly) three feet. Offshore was so strong I got blown back off a few - extra paddle strokes needed. Very crowded, presume they were all students. Bodyboarders who insisted on sitting way inside just asking to be run over and, as usual, half of South Africa.
First wave got dropped in on by a girl who just didn't see me taking off deep, and a guy her mate who I'm sure did see me…shame as it was a nice right. Second wave was a left which I wobbled on takeoff on as it was soooo windy, recovered and managed to shoot down the line and turn under the lip. Last one got dropped in on then he fell off anyway. Nice.
Still stoked as to be out there. Froze to absolute death but that's my own fault - 3/2 that doesn't fit, strong winds, pelting rain and end of November. So the Psycho goes on tomorrow, and my Xmas list consists of one thing - money so I can get an Xcel Infiniti Hooded 5/4/3.
So I had to get out after just over an hour, the crowding was silly anyway, Weds afternoon must still be student sports half day. Should have been a rubbish session all told but am atually quite stoked.

Keen to get to yoga and get the kinks out and warm up. Hope it's not crowded.

Done no writing today or yesterday…