anticipation
Common sense is the collection of prejudices acquired by age eighteen.
- Albert Einstein, 1879 - 1955
Had the best surf at Fistral this morning! It looked big by the one person in, but the Bay was small and I’m sick of the Bay it sucks…So despite our looming deadlines I fucked work off and shot down there at 8. Only two others out though a few more joined us; a nice three feet or so (the odd eek! one) with discernable peaks, hardly a breathe of wind and warm sunlight.
Caught a good first wave, a steep left. Couple of others, one nice right which just wasn’t long enough. Hit the bottom really hard on another steep left takeoff and got thrown around. Suit is too warm, might need a 4/3 for this globally-warmed land.
Didn’t want to get out but things to do! Work, lots of! Editor ‘was really impressed’ with a piece of mine, stoked, and I have been given responsibility for another regular piece (not rocket science but I shall stamp myself all over it all right).
Planning sunset cocktails at the Headland Hotel (oh, get us!) then home to change and gather the troops around a large bottle of vodka, one of cider and my offering of Stella. (Rach’s last night out, and she’s getting over-excited already!) I am thinking of a very small brown skirt with boots and t-shirt. Then a little dancy-dance in Walky, Bedouin Soundclash are pretty funky! And lots of chat as everyone who matters will be there! ;-) Abs, Laurz, Rach, the Irie lot, Mark and co…oh and the boss, but she’s seen me druuunk before.
All in all an excellent day so far, and to come. And Slut2 is in the garage being tarted up by VW lovers.
- Albert Einstein, 1879 - 1955
Had the best surf at Fistral this morning! It looked big by the one person in, but the Bay was small and I’m sick of the Bay it sucks…So despite our looming deadlines I fucked work off and shot down there at 8. Only two others out though a few more joined us; a nice three feet or so (the odd eek! one) with discernable peaks, hardly a breathe of wind and warm sunlight.
Caught a good first wave, a steep left. Couple of others, one nice right which just wasn’t long enough. Hit the bottom really hard on another steep left takeoff and got thrown around. Suit is too warm, might need a 4/3 for this globally-warmed land.
Didn’t want to get out but things to do! Work, lots of! Editor ‘was really impressed’ with a piece of mine, stoked, and I have been given responsibility for another regular piece (not rocket science but I shall stamp myself all over it all right).
Planning sunset cocktails at the Headland Hotel (oh, get us!) then home to change and gather the troops around a large bottle of vodka, one of cider and my offering of Stella. (Rach’s last night out, and she’s getting over-excited already!) I am thinking of a very small brown skirt with boots and t-shirt. Then a little dancy-dance in Walky, Bedouin Soundclash are pretty funky! And lots of chat as everyone who matters will be there! ;-) Abs, Laurz, Rach, the Irie lot, Mark and co…oh and the boss, but she’s seen me druuunk before.
All in all an excellent day so far, and to come. And Slut2 is in the garage being tarted up by VW lovers.


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