dragons

Surf was PERFECT. Only 2ft really, but peaky, clean, not crowded, not cold, not closing out. Tolcarne this is. Saw a set and thought, that'll do, forget anywhere else.
A few bigger sets came through which were a pain to duckdive but nothing very challenging, which is good cos the (short) paddleout nearly killed me. Dog walking and yoga is not cardio…
Anyway i had 4 decent waves, although nothing pushing it. Enjoyed it very much. Tide was pushing so it got wedgy and weird like it does there, but I like that. Last wave was steep as and I hit the lip, board went shorewards and I cartwheeled over the back. Fun.

Twitter not working quite yet…I made the mistake of announcing that I had nothing to do work-wise. Now I have. Lots.