Tuesday, May 01, 2007

cutty

Got up at 7 and surfchecked. One girl running down, no one in. Got in at 8 and she was coming out stoked and amazed it was still empty. Had it like that for 30 mins then a few, the guy I always see short v good surfer.

Had the BEST left for ages, did a PROPER cutback!!!! All the fucking way roundhouse thank you very much. It wasn't vertical and fast at all haha but I'll get there. Was backhand on a lovely wave I got about 4 turns in. Only 2ft but clean as a whistle and lovely at North, bank is decent now. Offshore this morning too. Had a few others but most of them closed out really. An hour isn't long enough!

Boys from the office all gone. Bet it's crowded as now. Haha.

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