ow

went for a surf this morning, second wave bottom fell out of it *(about 3ft fistral, a lefthander) and when i came up the board hit me in the face and has broken my nose :-( I look like a freak, have to stay 'rest' all day and can't even take drugs (paracetamol hardly counts). Can't surf for 7 days til swelling goes down then they'll reset it (she said if it's not just swelling anyway but it's not, i can see and feel where it's fractured) so i'll look freaky/be out of the water/parties another 7 days. It's bending to the left.

Joy!

A nose job, just what I always wanted, but not quite this way!

no black eyes so far but it's only been a few hours, cracking headache though and my teeth hurt.

I can't surf i'm so upset i'm so unfit after pneumonia/neck injury/shit waves I was so so stoked this morning. Rob Small this big wave Canary Islands guy friends with work lot was out there, paddled up like you okay? blood everywhere yeah not bad mate, how does it look…he said it might be time to go have a cup of tea.