friday surf

Laura didn't evenn go surf in the end…i paddled fromthe harbour to GW and no sign! ah well i din't mind it was 2ft+ and pretty clean too, got a few good ones and felt stronger and better. The sun even came out. I'm still thinking I need to replace my board, but it's just not an option at the moment…I had one nice right one of the bigger ones some guys hooted it (the wave I think not me) it was a great wave but I was a bit off balance. A couple of waves I didn't have that bloody back foot in the right place but somehow felt like I had time on my waves, and moved it back and it makes such a difference when it's on the pad. So that's to be worked on…it's been surfable since but really rubbish…and I think I'm getting ill again?! No way!!