ddoe

It looked shite, but the alternative (staying dry and pissed off) wasn't all that attractive. Watched a couple of sets come in with Beechy and thought I might as well. Drove back down and Danny was there, Josh was already in. It was still rubbish but I hopped in as more people piled down. They're all well on it, even the inlanders. Middle peak was working so all on that, and like sheep follow Danny as he's the best surfer, but also he's goofy…so I stayed on the right over the sandbank, just waiting for the ones that hit it by the Bica. It was two foot max, but I had so so SO many waves, like at least 20, and only fucked up about 3 towards the end when cold (what to do about wetsuit??) so I was happy. Wave after wave while the boys sat and talked instead. I definitely can't surf unless I'm quiet and focused. Had a few where I got the board up out the back nicely (what I mean is, above the wave, as in re-entry with some vert)…don't care if anyone saw, I was just glad after last time. Well, small shitty boy-filled surf is what I learned on, after all.

Mate going to live in Ireland in a house with no leccy or running water, half derelict, for the next six months. Not far from some class left points. I'm so jealous of all the adventurers. Mine are only in my head until I have paid off my debts. Maybe the weekend after next I shall take my van and its new baby gas fire down south again. Porthtowan, or Penwith, I have places left on the OS to scout out.