home at last

Yippee, finally a surf…a proper surf for the S4, it was just waiting to come here, where I learned to surf, and taste some crappy Welsh windwaves! Wasn't that bad…at least it was bigger than the 1ft that's alll I've surfed in the last weeks. Just a couple of feet but then I don't need a harsh paddle out. Chest was okay.

Nat was out tehre but not for long. Pete eagles, chris welch, danny oldfield, bobby and a few i've not really seen, not sure. Didn't talk a lot, just surfin'. Water's warm and the sun peeped out after paddling out in driving rain. Too many people at first, guess they'd been in maybe an hour already though as all out before me.

Dragonplayer felt good, caught whatever I wanted (not much power to the waves, had to find the peak proper) and I had lots of waves. Nothing long and flowing, but did do okay with what was on offer. Being in the sea with a surfer as good as Danny (360s on nearly every wave) does make you wonder what you're doing wrong…but it's home and I love surfing here.

Mum came down with the dogs and took some photos, nothing of me really on a wave! hard to catch that. I think my lefts were best, funny. Nothing really opened up for me though. Only fluffed once which is good, but ahh it migth have beena nice one.

Crannog's easy to surf as ever… I guess I just know it. Nice to get that feeling of connection with the new board…it flies, but it's not the small wave miracle i'd heard it is! But coimpared to my flat 6'4 it's not really going to be. But anyway, I can surf it, and surf it to the best of my ability.

Today I shall search for some shelter…