meme

Because everyone else is doing it.

Another surf this afternoon, about 6-7 people in, here, on a weekday afternoon!! Was better waves, peakier and bit bigger, took the S4 out and caught SQUAT. Just a bad day I suppose. Also can't talk (or rather, listen) and surf - I have to focus. That's why people sit out there in their tens and hundreds and just have this look in their eyes which other people sometimes call unfriendly or even localism. Nah. Unless you're shit-hot, and even if you are, you have to focus, get in tune…time for tales of Goonie-ing down the road on the local kid's bikes are best told over a pint of our local flat lager!

But anyway, I was also knackered from farting about in the morning dribble, and my chest hurt, and my wetsuit has me shivering after half an hour - not good. Also I'm not fit enough. But mostly, it was just a bad day. Not that I'm unhappy, cos I got in the water!