2ft clean; nothing
Driving off for a camping and surfing weekend, drive shaft broke, all day spent waiting for tow trucks etc. Joy.
Ben said surf had picked up so I swapped the 6'4" for the S4 and went down about 6. Surfed until dark and caught…jack shit. Absolutely nothing. Just one of those sessions. I wasn't settled or calm or relaxed at all, and the more I missed the more I got upset. Quite quickly I sort of said well, it's one of those sessions, so fuck it, I'll enjoy the autumn light (so amazing in Cornwall and Wales) and see if I get one, and if not, not. But I never get NONE these days! Most sessions I'm one a set at least.
The boys out there were a little offputting. I paddled wide of the middle peak to have some space (north was totally stupid) but still, too many boys who think snaking you and going deeper is okay. I'm not ever intimidated by that shit - so you're better than I am? Not by fucking much you're not, and I'm still entitled to waves. But of course, if they see you're not catching any, they think they can go for ones you're obviously in the spot and going for. Not blaming them like at C------, but boy it's annoying to have them all over you (ha, I wish eh). Also my fitness precludes me from paddling around like a grom to go for every hump. Also yes, it does annoy me to look like a kook who's just bought a shithot board to look good. I can surf! Honest!
The water was amazing, silk and clean and just the right temperature. I'll get up early tomorrow to try to avoid the hassle and just get the focus right, chill with it…
Ben said surf had picked up so I swapped the 6'4" for the S4 and went down about 6. Surfed until dark and caught…jack shit. Absolutely nothing. Just one of those sessions. I wasn't settled or calm or relaxed at all, and the more I missed the more I got upset. Quite quickly I sort of said well, it's one of those sessions, so fuck it, I'll enjoy the autumn light (so amazing in Cornwall and Wales) and see if I get one, and if not, not. But I never get NONE these days! Most sessions I'm one a set at least.
The boys out there were a little offputting. I paddled wide of the middle peak to have some space (north was totally stupid) but still, too many boys who think snaking you and going deeper is okay. I'm not ever intimidated by that shit - so you're better than I am? Not by fucking much you're not, and I'm still entitled to waves. But of course, if they see you're not catching any, they think they can go for ones you're obviously in the spot and going for. Not blaming them like at C------, but boy it's annoying to have them all over you (ha, I wish eh). Also my fitness precludes me from paddling around like a grom to go for every hump. Also yes, it does annoy me to look like a kook who's just bought a shithot board to look good. I can surf! Honest!
The water was amazing, silk and clean and just the right temperature. I'll get up early tomorrow to try to avoid the hassle and just get the focus right, chill with it…
posted by surfergrl at 10:27 PM
1 Comments:
I had a day like that the other day! Arms were aching from several days of surfing and I just couldn't quite catch anything.
I thought your tales of Fistral etc were funny. I live the other end of town so try to avoid the main beaches because they are too crowded and I'm still fairly new to surfing. Lusty and Whipsiderry sometimes have nice waves and only a handful of people in the line-up.
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