dominican republic??

Got to leave at 5 last night, good one. I was so fucking tired, but it was clean 2ft so I had to!

My new suit is AMAZING warm, really fits well. Didn't get cramp or feel cold at all. Should get at least another month out of it!

The board is also amazing, I love it. The waves were so small, but as soon as I was up it was off, it's just so much faster than the other one. It loves to turn. You pull it towards you with the leash and it skips up then sideways ready to be grabbed - not like a thruster does, so that must be the 4 fins.

Surfed loads of lefts on the middle peak. Stayed away from north with the logs and shredders, way too many people. Had a few pretty good ones as well. I can surf okay, but Christ my fitness…I'd take a wave, paddle back (it takes about 2 minutes) then be unable to take a wave for another minutes. Usually on a small swell I'd get 2 waves in a set. Oh dear. Wish inhalers were waterproof. Got really tired after an hour - used to surf for three in much bigger waves.

There's a possibility that I could be sent to the Dominican Republic as writer for a SurfGirl trip!!! I have to research it. It'll be the youngsters, which is okay but not ideal. But I would not complain. Oh no.

My Dad is ill, so prayers and the best wave go to him :-(