I Hate Swell Boards

Nice small lunchtime surf. You know, I think I might just be super unfit not actually ill. Mind you, I always think that until I have a bad day/week.

Rob, David and Joe and me on North peak; they were on swellys but I can't paddle the damn things — I really can't. There should be girly swell boards made, not quite so bastarding wide. They are my whole armspan, leaving only my wrists and hands over the side. I swapped with Joe for a bit but caught nothing.

Anyway it wasn't as clean as yesterday evening and it was a tad smaller, but I caught four or so that were okay. Do love the S4! And it was great to get out of the office and have some fun in the sun. Some days I feel like I was born to just surf.