long long lunch breaks

Saw one guy at Fistral this evening who eptomised good surfing for me - everything done with casual intent. No wasted movements, perfect timing, grace and reading the wave and going with it, not trying to force anything. That's really good surfing. Nothing flashy, though that's great to watch as well. Just flow, and confidence. I was too far away, but I bet he was hot. ;-)

Had myself a 2-1/2 hour lunchbreak. Should have pushed myself into more size, but bay was nice, clean, sunny, peaky even and I had lots of 2ft rides, so leave the challenge for another day, I'm happy. I'm fit enough to have a go sometime this weekend. Whoopsadasies tomorrow…