popeth ya iawn
Yes, a much better surf! It was just a bad session…
I seem to always know when an outside set is coming. I get a feeling, before anyone else. It always makes me think of Layne Beachley; I'm not sure why. I must have read something about her reading of the ocean, and it should be good the length of time she's been surfing. I think I read it pretty well. Sometimes I'm too far out for said outside set. In bigger waves, that's a good thing, because the outside sets so often seem to close out, and hard, because they're not hitting the banks the same as the regular sized waves.
Got up about 7.30am (despite disturbed night) quite nervous it'd be big, but it was the same as last night really, 2 maybe 3ft on sets. Clean as a whistle though, lovely. More cloud cover but some light peeping through. There were about 6 on north already, more scattered at south so I kept Golf Terrace as my reference point and had a smaller peak to myself for half an hour. Then in they crept…but by then it was MY peak thank you very much and it didn't get all that crowded anyway.
One wave I was just going along and thought, if I go for speed will it just bog. Then I realised I can trust this board, I really can, and went for it and it flies. It's so fucking responsive it's ridiculous.
So I got lots of waves, one or two to make me smile and say yes, that's it! I think I was tired and stressed more than I thought yesterday…Arms hurt now, tired again, think I'll have a nap while the house is quiet. I can surf, and I got loads and surfed them as well as I could. My fitness is an issue, definitely. I'm too tempted to take ones that are perfect when I've only just had one and am in no state to paddle for another! It'll come in time. As the nights get darker I'l swim instead of surf, plus trampet and yoga and good healthy food.
I seem to always know when an outside set is coming. I get a feeling, before anyone else. It always makes me think of Layne Beachley; I'm not sure why. I must have read something about her reading of the ocean, and it should be good the length of time she's been surfing. I think I read it pretty well. Sometimes I'm too far out for said outside set. In bigger waves, that's a good thing, because the outside sets so often seem to close out, and hard, because they're not hitting the banks the same as the regular sized waves.
Got up about 7.30am (despite disturbed night) quite nervous it'd be big, but it was the same as last night really, 2 maybe 3ft on sets. Clean as a whistle though, lovely. More cloud cover but some light peeping through. There were about 6 on north already, more scattered at south so I kept Golf Terrace as my reference point and had a smaller peak to myself for half an hour. Then in they crept…but by then it was MY peak thank you very much and it didn't get all that crowded anyway.
One wave I was just going along and thought, if I go for speed will it just bog. Then I realised I can trust this board, I really can, and went for it and it flies. It's so fucking responsive it's ridiculous.
So I got lots of waves, one or two to make me smile and say yes, that's it! I think I was tired and stressed more than I thought yesterday…Arms hurt now, tired again, think I'll have a nap while the house is quiet. I can surf, and I got loads and surfed them as well as I could. My fitness is an issue, definitely. I'm too tempted to take ones that are perfect when I've only just had one and am in no state to paddle for another! It'll come in time. As the nights get darker I'l swim instead of surf, plus trampet and yoga and good healthy food.
Labels: surf
posted by surfergrl at 12:37 PM
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