never enough

Ahhhhhhhhhh I know I'm lucky to get to surf at lunchtime but AN HOUR IS NOT ENOUGH! Not when it's blue sky, light winds, so many places to choose from, so few surfers in the crispy cold water, clean lines at all the spots, two foot to double overhead, shall I go eek or play it safe, why is there no-one in at Whoopsadowndasies, my favourite, why do I have to end up in the Bay again? Why is my first wave always the best - ah racing the wall and two clean lazyily drawn easy easy turns, like I actually know what I'm doing out here. A few straighthanders, I give those little dragons a talking to. Hot blonde boy and hot Irish boy start chatting in the lulls, always nice to have something to, er, spectate on…

Then a little visit from that nice Mole, looking like he's been hidden underground for a while with that facial growth! Telling us the Cribber may be 10ft tomorrow and there might be some tow action to watch, feast your eyes.

The whole coast is stoked, racing time and tides to get some. Be happy with what you can get, be it all day, just lunchtime, or waiting for the weekend.

I am happy now. But the office seems a strange, wrong place to be. There are waves out there!

Never enough, until next time.