Tuesday, December 11, 2007

what a difference!

Had a surf at Fistral. It was about 2-3ft on the push. Wore the 3/2 but with hood, but didn't need hood as it was smaller than I thought. And weak! Argh. I caught more on Saturday in the howling winds (had loads at the Bay)! The waves were so backing off, doubling up and weak I hardly caught a thing :-( and stuffed up the only decent one I did get on. One step forward…

But it was blinding sunlight, still not cold, few people out (including someone who bust a big air, really impressive) and clean waves. Try again tomorrow! It was really beautiful out there but I am feeling somehow a little out of step with the ocean. I think it's how damn dark it is — I get up in the dark and go home in the dark. Ah well, the nights draw out from 21st.

Waves for the rest of the week so I've plenty of time to make up for my awfulness!

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