Dominican Republic Day 1

Mostly going to post on the SurfGirl blog as I am actually supposed to be here for work ;-) but will also update here because I'm just too excited to shut up!

It is all the cliches of paradise here, the surf's not ace yet but it will be. Had two 2-3ft surfs in boardies today, tired as now. Girls are all cool, place is amazing, it's warm...I hadn't realised how much I've been struggling in the winter waves of Cornwall! Had two rubbish small Bay surfs at the weekend, bored, crowded, freezing, then come here and my first wave is better than anything I've had in ages. Had three or four that I was so pleased with actually.

Also had a local bust an air right in front of me and his board landed on my nose. Eek! Hurt, saw stars, but it's not broken again at least. He was very apologetic, I think he just meant to make the point I was in his way. I couldn't really help it, but I know you gotta really stay out of the localss way! Thing is, there was no-one out either time we paddled out, I think the boys were just super curious to see 7 surfer girls and had to come take a look.

They girls are all better than me, obvs, which is going to make me work hard! I want to catch a barrel, and I will, I'm determined.

Hmm, time for a beer.