Monday, January 21, 2008

still windy...

Searching for surf saturday. Bay looked ho hum. Got a lift with Laura and Josh up to Harlyn, which was moslty closing out and so so rammed with students. So we went looking. Checked out a reef, a little sheltered bay, the Doom Bar and had a nice curried pasty in Padstow, which is so gorgeous.

Ended up going home again as tide got too high for Harlyn on the second check. Saw a surfer girl I vaguely know in the carpark, she said hi to Josh, blatantly I'm with him (well, not like that obvs), I said hi and she completely ignored me. Stood there for a little, can never quite believe what a bitch she is, then carried on back to car. Honestly. Why be so rude?

So went for a nap then hopped in at Great Western. Hell of a paddle out. More than one boy looked surprised when I made it out. Fucking determined. Think I did well considering being ill all week but it was hard work, 3ft plus and actually quite powerful. Ie I got my arse kicked a few times! One 4ft barrel hit me square, not fun, but it's never as bad as france so…and yes, I did say barrel, and in the bay! Saw one guy get in, but not out of one. I had one nice left and another not great one. Not an ace session by any means, but it was only about an hour.

I read something on Surferbrat about how much patience surfing in winter takes. Too right. More searching, more waiting, more battling.

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