The Bay comes good
Nice one. At last!
Joe was well up for it as well, we all (Al too) went to check Whoopsadasies. No-one out, quite clean but a little out of control. So hard to tell from the top of the cliff! We suited up. As I was pulling my hood on the mother of all sets rolled in; the boys didn't see it and paddled straight out. I was a bit behind them. They stopped and started to take little inside ones (head high). I was like, boys, you have not paddled all the way out. As I got to the bottom of the steps a proper set came in and they were inside. I just didn't fancy the paddleout and instead climbed back up those bloody steps!
Went to Great Western instead. Paddled straight out onto a nice peak with a group of northerner 18-year-olds on it, all hooting at closeouts and enjoying the warmer water no doubt. I could tell they're not locals 'cos one smiled and said hello to me! (Sad but true.)
Got quite a few straighanders, two nice lefts where I went along for a little bit with this super steep wall next to my back, just waiting for it to close out but not minding really. Almost pulled into the second one that did that, but hesitated just a touch too long to do it. Next time.
What makes me happy is I managed to get one nice right and work it properly with a few turns. It wasn't amazing but I took off properly, stayed one, bottom and top turned and kept with the power pocket. Was really nice. I also got a pretty long left where I had to spend most of the time going around people! But was still happy with what I did with it.
It was only like two foot out there, but there were some peeling ones, especially earlier on. The later it got the more it closed out as low tide approached. We all took a few really good razor-sharp lip closeouts to the legs and head…several of the boys seemed more excited by being faced with a three foot cylinder about to detonate a foot in front of them than the actual rideable waves. I suppose that's a good way to look at it. There was certainly nothing to be worried about, you only get a quick tumble. (Story of…etc.)
So anyway, I got one great wave and I feel like my trip away (the hassle continues) wasn't wasted, that I did get somewhere. I'm definitely fitter, and must carry on with surfing, swimming, yoga, biking, walking…I do loads actually!
I had the song 'I'm in over my head' playing over and over in the water - not good! I had to forcibly change it to 'I wanna be a rock star'! Talk about talking myself out of surfing! I think I would have been in over my head, Joe said it was quite big and he's been dripping water ever since coming back. I just didn't fancy the struggle, I needed waves to show me that I can bloody surf!
Joe was well up for it as well, we all (Al too) went to check Whoopsadasies. No-one out, quite clean but a little out of control. So hard to tell from the top of the cliff! We suited up. As I was pulling my hood on the mother of all sets rolled in; the boys didn't see it and paddled straight out. I was a bit behind them. They stopped and started to take little inside ones (head high). I was like, boys, you have not paddled all the way out. As I got to the bottom of the steps a proper set came in and they were inside. I just didn't fancy the paddleout and instead climbed back up those bloody steps!
Went to Great Western instead. Paddled straight out onto a nice peak with a group of northerner 18-year-olds on it, all hooting at closeouts and enjoying the warmer water no doubt. I could tell they're not locals 'cos one smiled and said hello to me! (Sad but true.)
Got quite a few straighanders, two nice lefts where I went along for a little bit with this super steep wall next to my back, just waiting for it to close out but not minding really. Almost pulled into the second one that did that, but hesitated just a touch too long to do it. Next time.
What makes me happy is I managed to get one nice right and work it properly with a few turns. It wasn't amazing but I took off properly, stayed one, bottom and top turned and kept with the power pocket. Was really nice. I also got a pretty long left where I had to spend most of the time going around people! But was still happy with what I did with it.
It was only like two foot out there, but there were some peeling ones, especially earlier on. The later it got the more it closed out as low tide approached. We all took a few really good razor-sharp lip closeouts to the legs and head…several of the boys seemed more excited by being faced with a three foot cylinder about to detonate a foot in front of them than the actual rideable waves. I suppose that's a good way to look at it. There was certainly nothing to be worried about, you only get a quick tumble. (Story of…etc.)
So anyway, I got one great wave and I feel like my trip away (the hassle continues) wasn't wasted, that I did get somewhere. I'm definitely fitter, and must carry on with surfing, swimming, yoga, biking, walking…I do loads actually!
I had the song 'I'm in over my head' playing over and over in the water - not good! I had to forcibly change it to 'I wanna be a rock star'! Talk about talking myself out of surfing! I think I would have been in over my head, Joe said it was quite big and he's been dripping water ever since coming back. I just didn't fancy the struggle, I needed waves to show me that I can bloody surf!
Labels: surf
posted by surfergrl at 4:21 PM
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