Saturday swell pulse

Woke early and ready to get on it for the predicted pulse of swell. Still offshore and calm. Drove to Porthtowan and was there by 7.30ish. Freezing. Swift change into horrible heavy rubbery suit. I can't move in that bloody thing! Steve turned up smoking a fag.

We paddled out and I proceeded to be an arse. Two waves he called me into, the second was just a closeout anyway but the first was sweet! But I thought it was closing out on me so puled back. It was about 3ft out there, clean and peeling. A crowd of about ten all in all, it was okay at first just a few, then too many for the one peak. One other girl which was good to see. Steve had some nice ones but his twinny skipped out on at least one I saw. Oh, the waves were so nice! But all I managed to catch was three straighthanders before I had to admit that I couldn't feel my feet, my neck was killing me and I was getting nowhere fast. It was mostly the wetsuit and partly the crowd, I hate both. I know I can surf better than that, I have been doing so for the last two weeks, consistently. I have to get used to the cold again, and I have to not fuck about. Honestly. It was a lovely day, bit hazy but only a gentle offshore and the sun peeked out and the water was glassy. The boogers were loving it, pulling into closeout shorebreaks as I got out. It dropped really, really fast, but that one bank in front of the cliffs at the north end was good.

So I hopped out and changed, had a hot chocolate with mint, sat on the wall and threw sticks for Furtle. Love my van.