sweet summer swell

This was Fistral yesterday morning, very sweet, wished I'd got up earlier! But Weds was a bit bigger, a bit much for my first surf back (esp with high tide and ridiculous crowds), and I thought it was picking up. Shoulda got up!


So nice.

As the van's door has all but fallen off and my bike's braked have seized onto the rims I was walking to work with the S4 (also dinged, now fixed). Hopped a lift with David to north Fistral at lunchtime to do battle with the lunchy crowd. Every wave had someone on it whether I was on the peak or trying for the sneakers. Caught one crap one. Boo. Sunshine was amazing though.

Cancelled the Cornwall Surfer Girls meeting to surf in the evening. Took furtle down the beach to play stone and sussed the emptiest peak. I don't care about the best, I need the emptiest. There's always one the sheep aren't on. Hopped in and stayed out ages, got back in tune with the board and loved it. I love that board. Now I'm thinking about different fins though! I need a bit more drive, I can't stamp on it and force it as much with those little grom fins. Haha I'm such an expert now. But in little waves, unless I'm fully in tune and popped up bang in the right place, I'm not booting it and feeling in sync. Obv partly my fault, but if the fins could help…will sell the old ones as well, defo, don't want two set the fucking same and they're not even proper quad fins anyway, I wanna try the ones made for the board. Will test drive first obvs…
but yeah sell those fins, they cost a fortune they did. Fair enouugh if i break one

I got loads of waves including a couple of good ones where I was driving down the line, racing to stay up with the wave and did make it. Also one re-entry, probably looked pants but I enjoyed it. A lot.

There were some fat high tide ones that were hard to get onto and faded as soon as you'd taken off. I was taking off then doing that weaving, pushing things that gets you on waves, or gets the good surfers on waves, little s-turns down the face to get some speed. I love the feeling of doing that and presto! It really works too.

Yeah so one righthander that was really good actually, though I wasn't totally in tune and stylin' on it like I want to be more. But they were all good waves, I'm not such a bad surfer…

Was warm this morning, lovely water, just three of us for quite a while. Another girl who was good but why the boots? Abs does well, straight up and backside angled takeoff, ain't nobody told her how she just gets it. I want her to try Penny, she doesn't need 6'8" of corky batteredness.

Well tired now. Glad to get back in properly, apart from a few tiny wave surfs I've been out for six weeks! And the surf session with Krisha for Cornwall Surfer Girls which went on ITV Westcountry…but they only showed one wave of me…