Monday, October 06, 2008

epic schmepic

I wish people would stop informing me how epic it's going to be. Epic swells down here mean me, and most others who are a) not amazing surfers b) are skint and c) have only a tiny window of time to surf in so can't search for somewhere that's not a) massively maxed out b) scary as fuck c) not jammed because it's sheltered… will not have as much fun as you would think.

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