i love levy

Porthleven's legendary reefbreak always seemed a rather unattainable goal, but I wanted it anyway. Saturday I surfed a couple of waves there, and just loved it. It's the closest place to home I've been in Cornwall (in spirit, I'm not comparing the wave).

I jumped off the rocks with a couple of colleagues telling myself respect but not fear - then realised I wasn't even slightly afraid. It was only small, after all…but the crowd was insane, hence the low wave count. I didn't want to drop in or get in the way, and I didn't.

I was smiling all the way through, and then all day - it was a perfect day. Hope I get another chance soon. Less of a crowd would be amazing, so I'll be watching charts and getting to work late.