new gloves - lovely
Fistral this morning — looks all right, but it wasn't! Just lumpy as.
No wind, good swell, bet it's lush at Levy — Steve's gone for the second time today! I don't dare abuse the 'surf when you like' privilege quite that much. Deadline Friday…
Sunny as today too. Just went in the Bay, Towan — pretty awful. Tide too low, I knew it would be, but hey. Checked it — no-one out, got in, 12 out?!
Just closeouts, closeouts and more closeouts. It's a big drop then straighten out, and more often than not it sucks dry as well, or if not dry then very shallow and sandy enough to scour your eyes out. Ah well. I got (and stuck) three elevator drops, and it's all good practice for other places that have big steep drops. Other places that then peel…or even barrel. Sigh…maybe Monday.
Labels: surf



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