rippy rubbish

Went for a surf this morning, it looked 3ftish quite clean, one out. 5 out when I got in, 3ft+ but SO SO weird… hopped in at usual spot, massive rip to north, would have been round Little by the time I paddled out, so I got out and walked further up to South. I paddled out not far shy of halfway to South and got ripped all the way there, so two great big currents running.

There was an inside line of waves breaking then calmness, totally, nothing breaking on the rip. Nice 3-4fters coming through, the crest breaking but no wave appearing, just fattened out. The longboarders were okay, and there were some lefts looking all right right dead on South, but the rest of it was bastarding awful, so frustrating. Not breaking or totally closing out. I hate sitting in a rip, but there was nowhere else to go.

I lasted about 40 minutes, caught nothing (5'11") and gave up — too much to do today to bother fighting it. I suppose it might be better at another state of tide. There's hardly any wind and the sun is actually out, so it should be nice but it just really isn't. And when you've got a new board to try and had someone ringing up at 8am going 'Where were ya attack, you'd'a loved it!' it's doubly frustrating. I want my van back!