upping the game

Surf picked up yesterday, from nothing to 3-4ft in the evening. Fistral was busy (always two guys for every wave) and it was a disorganised, lumpy, cow-shit smelling, cold new swell. A sudden roar quickly followed by wind which has ruined it today. I didn't get far but there were quite a lot of frustrated faces around.

I wish Mitch would hurry up fixing the levy-kisses in my quad. I just don't like the Resin8 toothpick, it's corky, and when I got a good right it just felt so slow in comparison (plus my feet were frozen, = painful cutback). It's too small for me, I like my boards 6ft plus and loose. Like men...!

Anyway I don't really mind, still happy I had a few more at Levy the weekend before last...one late takeoff steep right fast as. I felt like Layne haha. And only five of us in after the morning crowd had faded away — a touch of onshore sent them all to the north coast. Kelv lost his board to the rocks and I dinged myself and the S4, fook tis shallow, but makes me smile. And had a few at Hendra which blasted sand into my suit, ears, eyes... Have had some good times round that end of the world recently.


I'll take the blue house, thanks.


Explorin