hoot

Been playing on Facebook...

It was about 3ft and high tide when I got down Fistral. My best wave was my first one. It was hard to read out there, I was a couple of peaks short of south and the biggest ones were coming in to the north of me. Punching through the shorebreak was ace, but then I sat there for a while not able to get on anything because there were ones going fat then ones going square…was just thinking I'd have to go for a do-or-get-out suicide one when I grabbed a right. It went supersteep and davy jones dark green instantly and I just gritted it, too late to pull off - bang onto my feet properly, leaned in hard, and holding it. Bottom turn straight away to avoid the guy who must of had a fucking heart attack when he saw me coming, but I had that unshakeable, I AM going to make this one. That board is so good, it just shot down the line for maybe 25m and I was so close to the wall. If only it'd chucked - haha. But I felt that I knew how to work it if it had… I had quite a high line waiting for it to make up its mind, but the section came down ahead of me, gutted, and I just pulled out in front of it going, phew. Then heard the guy hooting…he yelled something about 'go hard' at me but I couldn't really hear because I was plugged up. Big smiles.

Then I had a nice left and a few more though the bumps threw me off a couple and made me laugh. Anyway I was super pleased with that surf, just that one wave was so lush. Last wave was okay for a change as well!