Back to business

Went for a surf on Saturday with friend and colleague Jane at Tolcarne. It was so sunny and quiet at 9am, most of the town still abed. Nice to surf the Bay without hordes of people in. No girls other than the two of us. We made it out deceptively easily, but a big wipeout and relentless closeouts did for Jane with her bigger board – no duck-diving that beast.

It was two foot-ish and clean, perfect to get into it again, but I couldn't get up! Popping fine but tripping over myself. Got one closeout — hm — and five where I tripped. But it was sunny and I wasn't toooo cold (hands were, gloves are thick as but not great still). Stayed out a couple of hours though so not bad. Don't feel too unfit. Duck-diving was hideous, pure tortre after one or two. But the air was clean and the water smooth, and the last wave was a funny wipeout…so I'll take that.

Monday saw a quiet day so I took the chance to head to Fistral which had perfect three-foot peaks in sunshine and the doleys/hospitality workers/self-employed were making the most of it. Here I fared a little better and paddled as hard as I could to grab a couple of okay ones. It was more the chance to sit and unravel a few things in my mind that sticks it as a good surf. And the beach so empty, the time just mine.

Everything unfrozen, there seems more life about the beach now. The fogs have been crazy recently; always make you look at the land anew. And I've seen a huge dead jellyfish (rare that size, rarer still in winter) and a very much alive hawk, hunting the bank above the Windswept Cafe. Plus snowdrops are poking up by the front door. Nature, waves and yoga are prising my conciousness up from a recent slump, and I remember tajitu and the interconnectedness of everything.