Eh? Dirty boy!

girls

Lovely waves down at Penhale, but crowded as. Eloise, Jan, Ben, Aaron, LouLou and Andrew, nice to surf with a crew! Only a quick sesh before the gig. The Beautiful Girls were excellent, really glad I went, and the support guy was good too. Camilla was there, Rosie and the twins looking gorgeous, Louise and Mike, and Feral Dave came over to say hi as well. Dunno about the Beautiful Girls, it was the beautiful people in there, quite intimidating all the tans, teeth and ultra-fash clothes, esp to me still covered in sand smellin' of neoprene...Great night, so tired though as the mother of all thunderstorms kept me (and poor Furtle) awake for a while.

Off for a lunchy now.

beautiful

Had another little surf at lunchtime, wish I'd got my ass up early as it has picked up loads today. Took a two hour lunch break, oops! Too nice to get out, not like I've got tons to do anyway...

Had loads of waves although it was pretty crumbly. Quite a few straighthanders. I think I'm not getting onto a lot of them early enough, got to paddle harder, although I am paddling as hard as I can in the first place!! It does help going for them earlier. Johnny said it was well sucky and quite big at Watergate, he got held down a lot, so it's not just me has had a kicking off this swell!

Had one nice left, one elevator drop which I made then it damn well sectioned in front of me, one nice long right and a few which just closed out. Lots for the hour I was in though, and the water's almost warm enough for shorts, (def wish I had the shortie) and twas sunny. Meeting Lou, Ben and co. at Penhale later for a pre-gig (The Beautiful Girls) surf, lush!

good people

doggy

Rescued a little doggy off the road today, everyone else just driving around the poor thing as it ran about whining... Only a puppy really but I found his 'auntie', babysitting him and I guess he was missing his mum and went looking for her. Little cutie. So I thought that might be some good karma, but when I went back to the van I opened it and the whole lock came out with the key...bygar. And some tosser has dented the passenger side door too...

So hot today, glad I can sit in boardies and t-shirt in this office or it'd be unbearable. Outside chance of a tiny wave later, charts not looking good for next week tho. :-(

quickie

Quick after-work surf at South Fistral (might as well camp permanently at that place), 2ft and quite fat, still nice and sunny and not too crowded. Rob was out there too. Kept thinking about what Llew said and paddled for everything as soon as I saw it was a possibility. Talking to the waves, 'Hwn sy biau fi, dere 'ma, piga fi lan,' think most thought me crazy...who cares cos I caught TONS of waves, had a really nice left, bottom turn but then lost a lot of speed, need to work on that. One right where I had to cutback hard straight away cos it was so fat, and it worked, felt good. Couple of shorter rides and one really long right, smiling all evening off that one wave! Stoked.

pummelled!

Christ, the surf was fucking amazing on Saturday. The boys legged it down the beach, so excited like little kids, north Watergate was 4ft or so of perfect barrels, some closing out but mostly just wow, don't think I've ever seen waves like that in the UK except a couple of times at home, but Watergate breaks differently... I paddled out fine, took a look at a few but didn't catch one. It was beautiful out there, perfect. Then I was paddling over to get onto the north side of this big sandbank to try and get into some rights and this big set appeared... I was fucked from the first wave, had no chance! Took about four on the head, duckdived the first three but it didn't do me any good! Quite breathless then, next one I didn't dive properly and came off the board, then another three or four just washed me in and I was getting a bit, like, when will this end?! But I held on to my board, tried to duck as hard as (have the bruises to prove it!) and didn't panic and thrash about so...
Took a little time to get my breath back then paddled back out. Was ok for a bit, went further south, but then another set drilled me, not as big at all but I was pretty tired. So I got out and rested for a bit, gave myself a talking to! and paddled back out again... this time it was fine and I even caught a couple! but fell off them straight away... Shocker session really but taught me a lot I suppose. Can laugh about it now. Would have been nice if the boys had actually seen me on a fucking wave, I mean I CAN surf, honest!! but recently... ysbwriel.
Smaller sessions in Fistral later on that day, then another little surf yesterday, both with Ems who was really enjoying the surf too. Wish I'd got photos of Watergate on Sat. Perfaith!

crantock

Been surfing every day, bliss. Have had loads of waves too. Last night went to see Pob and Catrin in Crantock, nice little 2-3ft there but didn't have a good wave. Can't surf and talk, was tired and it was quite crowded. Jamie Owen was out there ripping.

Couple of feet again today, hoping the office will take a long surf lunch hour. I like this job!